مطالعه تطبیقی پوشاک زنان شمال ایران(گیلان) و شمال هند( راجستان) (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
در طول قرن ها، پوشاک ایرانیان نظر جهانیان را به خود جلب کرده است و از سویی دیگر پوشاک هندیان نیز با خصوصیاتی مشابه، دارای تنوع و زیبایی انکارناپذیری است. در طول قرن های متمادی گروه های مختلفی ازجمله علما، دانشمندان، هنرمندان، صوفیان و تجار از ایران راهی هند و باعث تحولات مثبتی در زمینه های مختلف اعم از اشاعه علم، فرهنگ و هنر در آن دیار شدند. ازجمله ایرانیانی که به صورت گروهی وارد هند شدند، می توان به مهاجران گیلانی اشاره کرد که در پست های مهم و کلیدی منصوب شدند. این تحقیق به منظور دستیابی به این پرسش که ایرانیان علاوه بر اشاعه علم و فرهنگ و هنر و مذهب، نوع پوشاک و عادات پوشش خود را نیز اشاعه داده اند؟ صورت گرفته است. پژوهش حاضر از نوع بنیادی است که به روش توصیفی-تحلیلی به مطالعه پوشاک باستانی و سپس شناسایی عناصر مشترک بین پوشاک گیلانیان و راجستانیان پرداخته است. اطلاعات به دست آمده نشان می دهد که مشترکات زیادی در پوشاک و تزئینات لباس آنان وجود دارد که یکی از دلایل مهم این مشترکات، پس از حضور ایرانیان، مخصوصاً گیلانیان در دربار هند و اشاعه فرهنگ ایرانی به ظهور رسیده است.Comparative Study between Women’s Clothing in North of Iran (Gilan) and North of India (Rajasthan)
Over the centuries, Iranians' clothing, which consists of different parts, has attracted the attention of the world. Indian clothing also has an irrefutable variety and beauty. Between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries, various groups including scholars, artists, Sufis, and merchants from Iran came to India and brought about positive developments in various fields including the spread of science, culture, and art. Among Iranians who joined India in a group, Gilani immigrants were appointed to key posts. The research has tried to address only one region in each country that has long-standing garments and features of proximity to ancient women's apparel. Also, by studying clothing and then identifying common elements between Gilani and Rajasthani garments during the fifteenth and eighteenth common garments of centuries, these two regions has been analyzed. The present study is a descriptive-analytic study of the women of Gilan and women in Rajasthan. The Information obtained shows that there are many similarities in their garments including clothing and clothing accessories. One of the main reasons is the presence of Iranians, especially Gilani people in the Indian court, and the spread of Iranian culture in those centuries. IntroductionThroughout several periods of history, Iran has witnessed the migration of various segments of the population to neighboring lands especially India. Sometimes these migrations were due to their dissatisfaction with life in Iran and sometimes in the hope of achieving a better life in India. Jaberi Nasab in his article “Iranian Immigration to India” divides different groups of immigrants to India into three groups:The first group were scholars and writers, scientists who, due to the prevailing atmosphere of oppression or due to religious differences in Iran and the reputation of relative free thinking in India, endured the suffering of emigration and left for that land.The second group were mystics and Sufis who were fascinated by the philosophical and intellectual elements, which invited them to the mysterious world of India, or some others who were exiled to Islam due to their inclination towards the kings of India. They migrated to India.The third group were those who migrated to this land out of greed for status and position, and some of them gained high positions in the court and, consequently, great wealth. "(Jaberi Nasab, 2009: 31)During the Safavid period, the land of Gilan suffered many problems. With the arrest and imprisonment of Khan Ahmad Gilani, many people were forced to find a way to the Muslim and Persian-speaking kings of India, who warmly welcomed the Persian-speaking elites, especially the Iranians. (Jafarpour Bijarineh, 1396: 48). This research is an attempt to address the question that if Iranians, in addition to spreading science, culture, art and religion, have also spread the type of clothing and clothing habits?1.1. Research methodologyThis research has been done by descriptive-analytical method. The theoretical foundations of the research have been done by studying library documents and traveling to Gilan and India for face-to-face observation by the researcher. Presentation of tables and division of clothing sections for their analysis is the basis of the main method of this research. DiscussionIn this part of the article, considering that Ghasemabadi's dress, among other Gilani clothes, has originality in form, color and complete components and is a sign of Gilani's beautiful dress, as well as Rajasthan women's dress, which has similar characteristics; it is discussed and analyzed as sample studies.Considering that the main components of Ghasemabadi and Rajasthani women's clothing have common and significant points in the areas of headgear, shirts and skirts, these three parts of clothing are compared. Although women often wear pants in both areas, it is not possible to make an accurate assessment because there are not enough resources to see the pants due to being under the skirt, and vests, shoes and slippers are of little use to Rajasthani women. therefore, they were not compared.Head covering-The head covering of Gilan women, compared to Rajasthan women, includes a small hat that is worn under a long white scarf. This hat is decorated with a variety of sequins and stitches. (Figure 14). The women of Rajasthan do not wear hats under their long scarves. The probable reason could be hot and humid weather. Of course, in areas like Talesh, women do not wear hats.ShirtIn Gilan, women wear short shirts and long sleeves. According to historical evidence, this shirt has not changed much over the centuries. The forearms and wrists are usually decorated with colored and gold fasteners. (Figure 16) In Rajasthan, women wear a shirt or blouse that is short to the waist or higher, with short sleeves, usually up to the elbow or shorter. This shirt has no collar and is sometimes bare from the back to the waist. It can be said that weather conditions as well as religion have caused changes in the length of the shirt and its sleeves in Gilan.skirtAs can be seen in the pictures obtained from the clothes in Gilan, the women wore long and pleated skirts that are still used in the same way. At the bottom of the skirt, colored ribbons and ribbons are sewn regularly and beautifully. (Picture 18) Rajasthan women also wear skirts like Gilani women. The skirt is up to the ankle. The embellishments on the skirt are similar to the skirts used by Gilani women in Qasemabad, Amlash, and Rudsar. ConclusionThere are many similarities in Iranian and Indian women's clothing. The diversity of Iranian and Indian women's clothing in different regions has led to the fact that only one region in each country has a long history in terms of clothing and features that are close to the clothing of ancient women. In this study, an attempt was made to compare the similarities and differences between the clothing of women in northern Iran in the Gilan region and women in northern India in the Rajasthan region. Since this research required the history of clothing in both regions, the ancient women's clothing in the two regions was examined. Looking at the historical background of clothing in the two countries, the evidence proves that in ancient Iran, women always wore long, with wide and pleated skirts and headbands and scarves. While Rajasthani women's clothing in ancient times and before the arrival of Iranians in India, there were many differences with Indian women's clothing after the migration of Iranians to that land. By comparing important parts of Rajasthani and Gilani women's clothing in the mentioned centuries, this clothing, which included headbands, shirts and skirts, shows that the type of clothing, even the decorations of clothes and skirts are very similar, so that the bottom embroidery of Gilani women's skirts from Features of women's skirts in this region can also be found in Rajasthan women's skirts. What distinguishes this dress is one of the hats of Gilani women in areas such as Qasemabad, Rudsar, Amlash and several other cities and villages of Gilan which is not found among Rajasthani women although Gilani women in the Talesh region wear hats, and they are more similar to Rajasthani women. Another difference in Gilani women's shirts is that they have longer sleeves up to the wrists and a more closed collar than Rajasthani women's shirts. Regarding other parts of clothing such as shoes and pants that were not examined, it can be noted that Rajasthani women mostly did not wear shoes, and pants were not found in historical documents, so they were not investigated in this study. ReferencesAlkazi, Roshan. (1983). Ancient Indian costume, Art Heritage, 1983Biswas, Ashok. (2017). Indian Costumes, Division ministry of information and broadcasting.Boulanger, Chantal. (1997). 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